Socks may not be the most eye-catching part of your outfit, but neglecting them can certainly reduce the completeness of it. Here are some rules and guiding principles to help you get it right.
Published at: Dec 19, 2024
Kristoffer Lund
Socks may be one of the smallest components of your wardrobe, but their impact is anything but minor. Neglecting this often-overlooked detail can detract from an otherwise polished outfit. Whether you're aiming for casual comfort or formal elegance, the right socks can tie your look together. In this guide, we’ll explore how to choose the perfect pair to complement your style.
No-show socks, also called "invisible socks," emerged as a solution for achieving the sockless look without compromising on comfort or hygiene. Originally popularised in the 1950s by the Ivy League's love for loafers and boat shoes, they’ve since become a summer staple for casual menswear. These socks are ideal for creating a clean, barefoot aesthetic in warm-weather outfits but should never be paired with dress shoes.
Ankle socks are similar to the no-show socks, but you will see the lining above the shoe-line. They originated as part of athletic attire, but has since become wildly adopted by the casual and everyday wear style.
In my opinion these belong with your sportswear. If you wear loafers it looks odd to have half a sock peak up from the shoe, and it does not belong with any form of formal wear.
Crew socks is the probably the ones you know the best. A mid-calf length sock that transitioned into civilian use all the way back in the 20s, having been used by the U.S. Navy until this point. As the style turned more casual in the 50s, they were used with loafers or sneakers and cuffed jeans, and in the 80s and 90s it became synonymous with sports and streetwear. It has maintained its status as a wardrobe essential due to the wide range of material you make the with, and the versatility the medium coverage offers.
Long socks were standard in Europe since before the 19th century due to the use of knee-length trousers men would wear. When the transition to full-length trousers came, OTC socks persisted, especially for formal wear, to maintain a lean line under the trousers. This stayed an important reason for the use of OTC socks in classic menswear all the way up until the transition to casual wear in the modern era.
These socks still holds a place in the drawer of a classic menswear enthusiast, and should not be discontinued just yet. They are ideal for business and formal attire to ensure your calf is not exposed when seated. They will not need to be held in place, and you can get them in all kinds of fabrics to fit your need for temperature regulation.
We do, of course, need to talk about fabrics. Different fabrics comes with different properties and use cases, and you want to make sure you have picked the correct one.
Cotton is the most widely used fabric in both formal and athletic socks. It's lightweight, durable and affordable, and you can blend it in countless ways. It's quite cool and can come in designs that will fit most occasions.
Wool is a great material for socks, and has been used in manufacturing since the beginning. It will keep you warm in cold weather and cool on warmer days. It breathes well and will not absorb moisture as other materials. For the formal kind, I will often opt for a blend of wool and a little bit of synthetic fabric to increase its durability. This is because the sock is supposed to be thin, and can easily wear out fast if it's made with 100% wool.
Cashmere is a luxury material. The properties are the same as with wool socks, but with a softer and more shiny feel. They will likely lose their shape over time, especially if it's made with 100% cashmere, so be aware that this is an added cost.
Silk socks are often reserved for black tie events. They are more pricey and less durable, and will often be very thin. Not a very practical sock, but it will elevate your look in formal events.
As all synthetic garments, this option is less breathable, less comfortable, but very durable. My recommendation is to go for a synthetic blend when looking for socks for running or hiking, but otherwise you can stay clear of this category.
There are a couple of other factors that should be thought of when picking out socks. Some socks will be knitted to look as plain and smooth as possible. This can work well in many occasions, but I myself prefer the ribbed socks. To me it looks more thought out and planned.
There are of course a lot of colour options, and I think this is the most important thing to consider when looking for the final details in your outfit. I like to match according to the total colour profile, but you can definitely use socks to spice up the outfit. If you are unsure, opt for darker colours. It doesn't have to be black, my go-to is often dark grey or brown, and if it fits the colour palette I will pick something in the lines of burgundy, navy or green.
My personal opinion is that you should avoid designs that are too attention grabbing, like images or very loud colour designs. Try sticking to OTC when wearing a suit, unless you are in a hot climate and wearing loafers. In those cases you can go barefoot or for a no-show sock. With the right socks, you can elevate any outfit - so choose wisely and let your style shine from head to toe.
Cheers!
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