Published at: Jun 22, 2024
Last updated: Nov 11, 2024
Terminology
There are likely to be some new words if you have never visited a tailor before, so let's start with a couple of different categories of clothes:
Off-the-rack: Also known as ready-to-wear. Clothes that are pre-manufactured to standard sizes so that you can simply pick them off the rack from the store and wear instantly. You can ask for alterations from the store or from your favourite tailor.
Made-to-measure: Often named custom-made. Uses an existing pattern that gets adjusted according to the measurements and design choices. Design choices will be limited to what the store offers. The production process often takes place elsewhere, which makes this option both faster and more affordable. The process involves a measuring sessions, design session and final fitting.
Bespoke: The most exclusive process. Involves 3-5 fittings and has no restriction on design choices (unless your tailor will veto some choices). Everything is created from scratch and the fabric will be cut and stretched to fit you perfectly.
Fabrics
The first step of the process will be to decide on a fabric for you suit. Choosing a high quality, comfortable fabric that fits your need for this particular suit is key to a good result. For example, if you are designing a suit to be worn at a wedding in Italy during summer, you should consider the temperature and go for a breathable material.
Here are some examples of the most common fabrics:
- Wool: Very versatile option from natural fibers. Offers good insulation for a winter suit and excellent breathability for warmer weather. It comes in a variety of weights and weaves and is both durable and wrinkle resistant.
- Linen: Best option for a breathable, warm-weather suit. It is made from natural fibers (from the fax plant), and is generally quite affordable. However, it wrinkles easily, which might make it less of a formal choice.
- Silk: Silk fabric is often used as a blend with another fabric, like wool. It is renowned for its luxurious look and softness, and can often be a good alternative for formal suits that needs a touch of elegance.
- Cotton: A classic, comfortable choice. Breathable and lightweight, with a matte look that makes it best suited for a casual suit. Often available at affordable price points.
- Polyester: Synthetic fabric that, in my opinion, you should try to avoid. It is not good for the environment, as it is essentially plastic, and it doesn't breathe well. However, it is very durable and affordable.
Suit parts
You might also want to have a look at what the different parts of a suit is named to avoid any confusion at the store. I find shirts to be easier to navigate around, but if you are completely new to this, you might want to have a look at that too. I will cover shirts more in detail in its own dedicated post.
The reason I want you to know some of this terminology, is because these are often the details you will have to chose a design for when you design your own suit. It's important to be aware what options are out there, and what options your tailor is able to provide. I really enjoying using the web based suit designer from SuitSupply when I want to sketch out a design. It will make you aware of some of the design choices you probably will have to make, and give you some insight into what is possible to do. Getting a visual representation of how changes will affect your garment is also very helpful.
Now that you know a little bit about the terminology, the different fabrics and alteration options, you are ready to start putting together your first items. Remember, you don't have to start with a full suit, you can start with just a shirt if that feels more like the correct entry point for you. My recommendation is that you come to your tailor with a plan, and that you are aware of what you are looking for. I have heard some stories of people being nudged into making choices they ended up regretting because the sales person/tailor was a bit pushy, and you don't want to end up in that situation. Prepare in advance and let them guide you and give you advice, but don't feel forced to get something you don't really want.
